The resultant data set can then be imported to the Helicon software for post-processing. If desired, the data set can be viewed and rotated in 3D as well.īasically, focus stacking can also be accomplished without a motorised drive, since image stacks can also be produced by steadily moving the Z-drive (height) and operating the camera’s shutter release manually. Once shooting is complete, the image stack is post-processed by selecting Helicon Focus in the menu to combine the individual frames into a fully focused image.ĭepending on the number of frames and the processing speed of the computer, this consolidation process may take several minutes. The procedure can be monitored on the computer, and the frames captured are stored automatically on the PC. Depending on the specimen and magnification selected, up to 100 frames or more are taken. Shooting begins simply by clicking the start button. The software also supports remote selection of exposure brackets. ![]() The camera and the StackShot focusing rail are controlled remotely through the Helicon Remote software, which receives the Live View image from the camera via USB cable. ![]() The LM lens unit is moved with the StackShot drive. Some of our most commonly used tools include the StackShot system from Cognisys and Helicon software. Our LM photography solutions ( LM macroscopes and LM photo microscopes) are ideally suited for use with motorised focusing rails. The individual frames are then blended to produce a single image with a very high depth of field and resolution. For instance, while the depth of field at a microscope magnification of 100x is only a few µm, focus stacking overcomes this by taking multiple frames (image stacks) at different focus points. This image processing technique is commonly used in digital photomacrography or photomicrography to compensate for depth of field loss – a problem inherent to both areas of photography, since the depth of field shrinks due to the intense magnification required. Assuming it looks right, you can now flatten all layers to get a smaller and workable file size and do any remaining adjustments such as cloning out the really sharp pieces of dust that seem to always collect somewhere on a shiny surface! I wanted to create an image with the feeling of luxury and wealth (thanks to a friend who loaned me the coins!) and I think this one really captures that spirit.Focus stacking with our LM macroscopes and LM photo microscopes Focus stacking is a method used to create images with enhanced depth of field. Photoshop does some real magic now to find the areas of each image that is really in focus and masking out the rest so that you get the best pieces of each bit of the overall subject. Then I use Edit>Auto Blend Layers and choose the “stack images” option. So step one is “Auto Align” which adjusts each image to accurately register it with the others. The next step is important, because although the pictures were taken on a tripod, and you would think that they would be aligned, in reality, you are moving the camera in a significant way for such a small subject, and so the perspective and scale is quite different between the images. Then I selected them all, right clicked and selected Edit as Layers in Photoshop to get them all into one file as individual layers. I then imported the images into Lightroom, and adjusted white balance, exposure, blacks, clarity and saturation, and then sync’d across the other shots so that they all had the same settings. By the way, the surface is the black lacquered top of a piano, which gives a nice deep black reflecting surface for these sort of images. For one coin leaning away from the camera, I took about six shots. Then I moved the camera forward to focus on the bottom quarter of the coin for the second shot, then about halfway up it for shot three and so on. I used live view with the magnification option to focus on the very front edge of the coin and took the first shot. It really is just triggering the flashes when needed. I have a Canon ST-E2 providing remote control over the flash guns, but I usually set those to manual strength and so I am not really using the features of the ST-E2. Lighting is provided by a Rogue Flashbender on my Canon 550EX behind and slightly above the subject, and I also had a second 550EX providing some fill light to the front edge of the coin (not visible in this shot). ![]() The camera is set to manual focus and fixed in the macro rails. Together with my new macro lens (a Canon 100mm f2.8L), I invested in a macro focusing rail to move the camera backwards and forwards in controlled steps. The reason for this option is that changing the focus on a lens does actually change the focal length and the perspective. ![]() It can be done by manually twisting the focus ring, but the best approach is to physically move the camera towards the subject to get different slices of focus.
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